Although he oversees the design of Bulgari’s watches, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani says he doesn’t approach his work as straightforward horology.
“I’m not a watch designer,” he said in a telephone interview from his office in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, where Bulgari Horlogerie, the Italian luxury house’s watchmaking division, is based. “I’m an industrial designer. During my career, I’ve designed chairs, shoes, sunglasses, jewels, motorcycles, cars, watches and many other things. For me, it’s a product.”
The watches that Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani has designed at Bulgari — where he has worked since 2001 except for a stint as an independent consultant for several brands — frequently include details that are clean and fuss-free, which might seem surprising from a brand that’s arguably best known for its bold jewelry and famous fans like Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren.
For women, for example, he adjusted the Serpenti — a 1940s design named for its snakelike coils that twist up the wrist — by rendering its bracelet in black ceramic tiles, delicate gold chains or interchangeable leather straps, each connected to a softly angular timepiece.
For men, there is, among other watches, the Octo, a streamlined timepiece with a distinctive eight-sided case. Its understated look nods to the work of the influential watch designer Gérald Genta, whose company was acquired by Bulgari in 2000, as well as industrial visionaries like the German designer Dieter Rams, whom Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani said he admired. There are several versions in the Octo Finissimo collection, which has won about 40 design and watchmaking awards since that line, distinguished by its slim cases, was introduced in 2014.
Although LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which acquired Bulgari in 2011, doesn’t share the sales figures of its individual watch and jewelry brands, the group’s most recent earnings report, issued in January, specifically mentioned the success of lines like Octo, as well as Bulgari’s gain in market share. The revenue of LVMH’s watch and jewelry division grew 12 percent last year, according to that report. Bulgari’s watches range from around ,600 for a simple stainless-steel women’s watch to nearly million for a one-of-a-kind grand complication timepiece encrusted with diamonds.
This week, the brand is unveiling at the Baselworld watch fair its latest take on the Octo: an extremely thin automatic chronograph in sandblasted titanium with a minimalist look, as well as a GMT movement that he said took three years to develop.
“It’s a new way to wear a grand complication watch in a more contemporary way,” Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani said. “That’s it — a very simple idea.”
“It’s very easy to add layers. It’s very difficult when you have to remove them,” he said. “With this watch, we tried to remove all the things that don’t make sense. The ultrathin execution is like a Formula One car; it’s like a military object. You just need the things that have to work in a proper way — no space for decoration, no space for something that doesn’t go directly on the core of the watch.”
The watch, which will cost ,600 in the United States and be available in July, has the quiet mixture of craftsmanship and design that’s become a trademark of Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani’s timepieces. “They manage to have the symbiosis,” said Roger Ruegger, the editor in chief of WatchTime magazine. “Usually, you would say form follows function, or the other way around, but they really have design and watchmaking on one level. What he has done, he has worked with that enormous heritage that he has inherited from this incredible Italian brand that has been producing jewelry and watches for quite some time now, and he managed to make it better.”
Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani, 47, was born in Naples, Italy, and as a young boy moved to Rome with his family; his father was an executive for the car rental company Hertz, and his mother ran a children’s clothing boutique. A childhood obsession with comic books, which he called “the first love of my life,” prompted him to begin sketching frequently and fervently, which he still does.
“I started to make sketches to make comics,” he said, adding that drawings of cars soon followed. “I’m not so strong at designing figures — to design the human body, for example. I can do it, but my passion is to design objects.”
He earned a bachelor’s degree in industrial design at the Istituto Superiore per le Industrie Artistiche in Rome in 1997 and joined the design team at Fiat. While designing cars, he began sketching his ideas in ink, which he said helped clarify his thoughts. “Your way of thinking is different,” he said, “because when you design with a pencil, you can use an eraser — you can change the elements of the drawing — but when you use a fountain pen or ballpoint pen or marker, you cannot change.”
Although he ended up switching fields, designing cars, which, like timepieces, incorporate mechanical and utilitarian elements, helped prepare him for the watch industry. As he put it, “The constraints are the turning point of the project and drive the aesthetics.”
“Fabrizio’s skills,” said Guido Terreni, managing director of Bulgari Horlogerie, “are very suited to find the way to overcome technical constraints and respect the original idea from an aesthetic point of view.
“This way of thinking comes, I think, from the automotive, because in the automotive you have plenty of regulations that may affect the original idea of a designer,” he continued. “You cannot overcome them, you have to adapt.”
The link between cars and watches seems especially strong in the contoured designs of Italian brands like the ones where Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani has worked. “They are very, very close cousins, even if they look very different,” said Nick Sullivan, fashion director of Esquire magazine. “The Italian combination of technical expertise and automotive perfection is something that’s been knit into the whole of motor racing since the year dot, so I think that they come at it, at the level of Fabrizio, in a sort of high aesthetic way as well as a functional way.”
Although he lives near the Bulgari Horlogerie Swiss offices — with his wife, Annalisa Caricato, a handbag designer, and their two young children — Mr. Buonamassa Stigliani is undeniably Italian, from his pronounced Roman accent to his personal style. He said it was inspired, in part, by his dapper maternal great-grandfather, whom he visited regularly in Naples as a child.
At the Watches & Wonders fair last month in Miami, for instance, he was dressed on an 81-degree day in a crisp, peak-lapel blue wool suit that was custom-made in Rome by Sartoria Carbone.
A coral horn — the traditional Italian good luck charm, made in this instance by the venerable Neapolitan company Enzo Liverino — was attached to a coral-beaded chain and threaded through a neatly stitched buttonhole on one lapel. Several pens were tucked in an interior pocket, including a sleek vintage Bulgari ballpoint, which he said he especially liked because of its triangular, ergonomically suited shape.
“He’s an aesthete through and through,” Mr. Ruegger from WatchTime said. “He literally breathes design.”B:
开奖查询开奖查询结果《【牧】【神】【记】》【确】【实】【有】【蛮】【多】【可】【以】【学】**【地】【方】，【正】【在】【取】【经】 ——————— 【前】【面】【的】【章】【节】【整】【理】【完】【毕】【了】，【可】【以】【一】【看】。 ———————
【队】【伍】【上】【了】【官】【道】，【但】【速】【度】【仍】【旧】【不】【快】，【很】【明】【显】，【的】【确】【是】【因】【为】【齐】【雍】【有】【命】【令】【在】【先】，【所】【以】【这】【队】【伍】【一】【直】【匀】【速】【前】【行】。 【姚】【婴】【后】【脑】【勺】【贴】【着】【车】【壁】，【腰】【背】【被】【齐】【雍】【的】【手】【托】【着】，【隔】【绝】【了】【与】【车】【壁】【碰】【触】，【希】【望】【这】【样】【能】【暂】【时】【的】【给】【她】【一】【些】【支】【撑】，【不】【再】【那】【么】【疼】【痛】。 【虽】【是】【面】【无】【表】【情】，【漆】【黑】【的】【眼】【睛】【里】【也】【挂】【着】【一】【些】【冷】【霜】，【但】【好】【歹】【举】【动】【是】【轻】【柔】【的】，【证】【明】【这】【人】【也】【心】【细】
【嗨】，【大】【家】【好】。【我】【是】【林】【阳】。【对】，【就】【是】【来】【自】【一】【个】【神】【秘】【的】【世】【界】，【又】【去】【了】【一】【个】【神】【秘】【的】【世】【界】，【后】【来】【又】.. 【喂】【喂】【喂】，【大】【家】【别】【扔】【鸡】【蛋】。【你】【们】【难】【道】【不】【想】【知】【道】【我】【和】【老】【和】【尚】【去】【了】【什】【么】【地】【方】【吗】？ 【其】【实】，【根】【本】【没】【有】【什】【么】【通】【向】【另】【一】【个】【世】【界】【的】【门】。【我】【只】【是】【在】【华】【夏】【大】【地】【旅】【游】【了】【一】【圈】【啊】。【毕】【竟】【我】【坐】【高】【铁】【是】【不】【用】【花】【钱】【的】。 【嗯】，【开】【始】【感】【觉】【很】【爽】
【办】【公】【室】【里】【的】【八】【卦】【是】【最】【多】【的】，【办】【公】【室】【里】【的】【工】【作】【人】【员】【无】【疑】【是】【聊】【八】【卦】【的】【一】【把】【好】【手】，【看】【着】【这】【么】【多】【人】【围】【着】【自】【己】，【蓝】【夕】【又】【后】【悔】【又】【害】【羞】，【早】【知】【道】【就】【不】【该】【答】【应】【他】【公】【布】【恋】【情】！ “Hello everybody，【早】【上】【好】【啊】，【各】【位】【美】……”“【女】”【字】【还】【没】【出】【来】【沐】【阳】【原】【本】【的】【笑】【脸】【就】【僵】【住】【了】，【以】【往】【他】【来】【顶】【楼】【可】【都】【是】【被】【热】【情】【地】【欢】【迎】【的】，【今】【天】【这】开奖查询开奖查询结果【什】【么】【是】【元】【师】？ 【捕】【捉】【魔】【元】【就】【是】【元】【师】？ 【不】，【不】【是】，【元】【师】【没】【有】【那】【么】【简】【单】。 【要】【成】【为】【一】【名】【真】【正】【的】【元】【师】，【必】【须】【有】【优】【良】【的】【品】【格】，【可】【容】【天】【下】【的】【胸】【怀】。 【但】【是】，【为】【什】【么】？ 【为】【什】【么】【元】【师】【阁】【的】【底】【下】**【的】【会】【是】【那】【个】【东】【西】？ 【为】【什】【么】【欺】【骗】【众】【生】，【背】【叛】【自】【己】【的】【初】【衷】？ 【元】【师】。 【一】【个】【多】【么】【可】【笑】【的】【职】【业】。 【一】【个】【多】【么】【可】【悲】【的】
“【嗯】~！【新】【朋】【友】【呢】？【不】【是】【说】【好】【了】【有】【神】【秘】【嘉】【宾】【的】【吗】？” 【艾】【玛】【突】【然】【想】【起】【了】【金】【威】【在】【开】【饭】【之】【前】【提】【到】【的】【梗】，【放】【下】【手】【里】【的】【鸡】【尾】【酒】【提】【醒】【着】【已】【经】【有】【些】【忘】【乎】【所】【以】【的】【金】【威】， 【周】【老】【师】【看】【了】【一】【眼】【金】【宥】【荔】，【漏】【出】【了】【皎】【洁】【的】【微】【笑】，【金】【威】【站】【了】【起】【来】，【故】【弄】【玄】【虚】【的】【清】【了】【清】【嗓】【子】： “【下】【面】【有】【请】【我】【们】【最】【最】【亲】【爱】【敬】【爱】【的】【周】【老】【师】，【来】【为】【大】【家】【揭】【晓】【一】【下】【谜】【底】
【楚】【昊】【站】【在】【高】【台】【上】【看】【着】，【就】【是】【那】【个】【狙】【击】【手】【死】【的】【地】【方】，【狙】【击】【手】【已】【经】【被】【处】【理】【掉】【了】。 【要】【问】【楚】【昊】【为】【啥】【要】【出】【现】【在】【这】【里】？【目】【的】【很】【简】【单】，【十】【二】【镇】【魂】【还】【需】【要】【人】，【他】【欣】【赏】【他】【们】【俩】，【他】【们】【也】【有】【些】【对】【项】【家】【的】【愤】【怒】【跟】【仇】【恨】，【楚】【昊】【需】【要】【有】【些】【这】【两】【种】【元】【素】【作】【为】【养】【份】【的】【人】，【可】【是】【他】【们】【上】【次】【拒】【绝】【了】。 【这】【一】【次】【应】【该】【不】【会】【拒】【绝】【了】【吧】，【楚】【昊】【暗】【想】。 【项】【家】【派】